The most remote inhabited island races to protect its seas – and its only source of income.
Dawn on the fishing grounds
At 05:00 local time, the clang of a hammer on an old oxygen cylinder wakes the island. It signals fishing day on Tristan da Cunha, a tiny speck in the South Atlantic with just over 200 residents. Beyond this UK Overseas Territory, the nearest inhabited settlement lies more than 2,400 km away.
As the sound fades, dogs bark, engines roar, and rubber boots scrape across the ground. Fishermen head to Callshot Harbor, known locally as “the Beach,” to bait traps and prepare boats. With only 18 to 72 fishing days per season, every moment at sea counts.
Treasure of the sea
Tristanians pursue their most valuable export: the St Paul spiny lobster, found only around remote southern islands. These lobsters fetch up to $39 per tail on the US market and sell in Japan and the UK. In the cool, temperate waters of the Tristan archipelago, they thrive near the shore at depths of up to 200 meters.
Decades ago, overfishing reduced lobster numbers significantly. Today, residents rely on the catch but understand that protections are crucial. James Glass, head of Tristan’s Department of Fisheries, says: “We have always relied on the ocean as a source of food, taking only what we need. This is a precious place, and we want it to stay that way.” Fisherman Shane Green adds, “It’s our livelihood. Without the ocean, our community wouldn’t function.”
Climate change, invasive species, and illegal industrial fishing now threaten both the ecosystem and the island’s economy. Tristan da Cunha residents act decisively to protect lobsters and their community.
Guarding one of the world’s largest marine reserves
Fishermen operate within the fifth-largest marine protected zone in the world, covering 687,000 square kilometers. Commercial fishing is banned in 91% of Tristan’s waters. In remaining areas, strict quotas, size limits, and onboard monitoring apply, while satellite surveillance helps deter illegal activity.
Jason Green and his partner Dean Repetto have sailed together for a decade. Their families have fished Tristan’s waters for more than a century. Repetto, also a fisheries mechanic, explains, “Fishing has been passed down through generations in my family.”
On a clear January day in 2024, Repetto, Green, and apprentice Tristan Glass set out in their 8-meter boat, Island Pride. They navigate offshore kelp forests, where towering brown algae grow up to 45 meters long and half a meter per day.
They locate fishing spots by triangulating landmarks and ocean depths. “It could be a pinnacle, a gulch, a hut, or a hill. You line one up with the other,” explains Eugene Repetto, who fishes on the Kingfisher.
Glass battles seasickness while Green drops 16 traps into deep water, leaving them for hours. Repetto steers to shallower water, where they use hoop nets to catch lobsters hiding in kelp forests. They check nets every hour before retrieving the deep traps.
Lobsters as ecosystem engineers
Tristan’s lobsters feed at night on sea urchins, mollusks, and other kelp-eating species, helping maintain underwater forests. They scavenge dead animals, recycle nutrients, and serve as prey for octopus and other predators. Their presence sustains a vital marine food web.
The island’s 229 residents live in extreme isolation. St Helena, the nearest inhabited island, lies 2,414 km north. Montevideo sits 4,023 km west, and Antarctica lies to the south beyond scattered uninhabited islands.
Travel to Tristan is limited to Cape Town, South Africa. Securing one of 136 berths on one of nine annual ships is just the first challenge. The 2,819 km journey can take up to two weeks depending on weather.
Life shaped by isolation
The author spent 10 months on Tristan from December 2023 to October 2024. Upon arrival, heavy swells closed the harbor for five days. The main settlement, Edinburgh of the Seven Seas, has no airport, hotels, or restaurants. Residents enjoy towering cliffs, strong community ties, and pristine ocean waters.
Commercial fishing arrived in the 1940s, making lobster the island’s economic backbone. The crustacean even appears on Tristan’s coat of arms. James Glass recalls, “Lobsters used to be so abundant people could catch them in rock pools at low tide.”
Rising sea temperatures may affect kelp growth, crucial lobster habitat, and push lobsters southward beyond the island’s reach. Cheseldon Lavarello, 82, remembers enormous catches at age 15: “My partner and I could catch 1,360 kg in a day using just ten nets.”
Early fishing lacked regulation. Undersized lobsters and egg-bearing females were often taken. In 1983, the Island Council introduced size limits and later quotas in 1991, strictly enforced by 1997.
Managing the lobster fishery
Ovenstone Agencies, the island’s main fishing firm, holds a large lobster quota of roughly 800,000 annually and harvests Antarctic butterfish. From August 2023 to April 2024, its vessel MFV Edinburgh fished nearby islands, landing 316 tonnes of the 441-tonne annual catch. Observers measured hundreds of lobsters daily.
Smaller boats landed the remaining 125 tonnes. Fishermen monitor traps, measure lobster sizes, and comply with quota rules. Fisheries officers tag lobsters, track movements, and use underwater cameras to assess health.
Despite isolation, Tristan faces environmental pressures. Busy shipping routes increase the risk of marine disasters. In June 2006, a floating oil platform washed ashore at Trypot Point, introducing 62 non-native species. The silver porgy spread to three islands and preys on juvenile lobsters.
In 2011, the MS Oliva ran aground on Nightingale Island, spilling soybeans and fuel. Thousands of penguins and seabirds died, and fishing temporarily halted at affected islands.
Scientific surveys and marine protection
National Geographic’s Pristine Seas survey in 2017 confirmed abundant wildlife and pristine conditions. Researchers documented seabird colonies, shark nurseries, and kelp forests. The survey highlighted the need to protect Tristan’s ecosystem while maintaining the lobster fishery.
Between 2017 and 2019, the Island Council, fisheries, and scientists designed a marine protected zone covering 687,000 sq km. Ninety-one percent of waters are closed to fishing, with a designated inshore zone preserving the lobster economy. Shipping “Areas to Be Avoided” minimize accident risks.
Janine Lavarello, MPZ officer, says, “Our waters are a safe haven. If a small community can set up this huge MPZ, bigger countries can achieve even more.”
Policing a vast ocean
Tristan lacks a dedicated vessel or airport. Satellite tracking helps monitor nearly 700,000 sq km of ocean. The UK’s Marine Management Organisation flags suspicious vessels through Automatic Identification Systems. Tristan’s small patrol boat, the Wave Dancer, has a range of only 300 miles.
In 2019, the MV Nika, falsely claiming to be a cargo ship, entered South Georgia’s MPZ. Authorities tracked it to South East Asia, impounded the vessel, and arrested the captain. Tristan cannot independently enforce rules, relying on UK support.
Satellite data shows that since MPZ creation, illegal fishing appears limited. Vessel traffic near the islands has decreased significantly. Suspicious activity continues near rich fishing grounds, highlighting ongoing threats.
Sea Sunday and cultural tradition
On a cold July morning in 2024, St Mary’s Anglican Church holds Sea Sunday, blessing fishermen and nets before the new lobster season. Shane Green, his daughter, and the Repetto family attend.
Fishing shapes Tristan’s culture and economy. Islanders know that taking from the ocean requires protecting it. Lavarello summarizes, watching the wind whip ocean spray, “Tristan’s ocean is something we must look after. Without it, we’re gone.”
