Far from the Himalayan trekking circuits and the bustle of Kathmandu, Nepal’s southern Terai region offers travellers a vastly different experience – one defined by dense wildlife reserves, lush farmlands, cultural festivals, and a tradition of heartfelt hospitality embodied in the saying “Atithi devo bhava” – the guest is god.
In the village of Bhada, near the Indian border, visitors can immerse themselves in Tharu culture through the Community Homestay Network, which connects travellers directly with local families. Staying with Shyam Chaudhary, the author helped prepare dishes for Auli, a Tharu harvest festival marked by drumming, dancing and the symbolic barbecuing of rice-field rats to protect future crops.
The day unfolded with music, communal cooking, and offerings to nature, led by the village’s Guruwa, a spiritual priest. Traditional food – from spicy starfruit pickle to rice and roasted rat seasoned with garlic and chilli – was shared among villagers and visiting guests, alongside cups of chhyang, a local drink brewed from rice or butter tree blossoms.
The homestay initiative has transformed Bhada, bringing income to households and opening the door to cultural exchange. All homestays are run by women, who hope more travellers will venture beyond Nepal’s famous mountains to discover the Terai’s vibrant traditions, wildlife and warmth.
As one host put it: “The guest is god – and we want them to feel that.”
